A High Walk Through Rupshu and Changthang Articles & = Stories: Travelogues Ladakh Kashmir India

From: Subject: A High Walk Through Rupshu and Changthang Articles & Stories: Travelogues Ladakh Kashmir India Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 21:34:09 +0530 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0000_01C096CD.DE6818C0"; type="text/html" X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C096CD.DE6818C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Location: http://www.realadventures.com/mv/showlink.mv?1024407+0002 A High Walk Through Rupshu and Changthang Articles & = Stories: Travelogues Ladakh Kashmir India "=20 name=3DDescription>

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A High Walk Through = Rupshu and=20 Changthang=20

Related Information On =

Ladakh
Kashmir
India
Asia

Travelogues
Articles=20 & Stories

=20

by = Vaibhav=20 Kala

Covering an area of about 60,000 square = kilometers=20 and ranging in elevation from 2,600 meters to 7,670 meters, = Ladakh=20 is sandwiched between two huge mountain systems: the = Karakorams to=20 the north and the Himalayas to the south. Ladakh is the=20 Trans-Himalayan region, the region of impact when the Indian = subcontinent collided with the rest of Asia 50 million years = ago.

One of the several geographic regions formed as = a result=20 of this impact is the Rupshu, a dry, high-altitude plateau = lying=20 southeast of Ladakh. It forms part of the larger area of = Changthang,=20 which spreads east into Tibet for about 1,500 kilometers and = whose=20 landscape is characterized by rolling mountains, vast plains = and=20 massive brackish lakes. It is an area which, due to its = remoteness=20 and proximity to Tibet, retained much of the character of = the=20 Tibetan way of life, with regular trade and barter = continuing and=20 trade routes being utilized as they were since they were = first=20 discovered. These routes offer exciting avenues for anybody = game for=20 a high-altitude adventure and an appetite for some of the = most=20 incredible sights in this far-flung corner of the=20 sub-continent.

The Border Roads Organization does a = great job=20 linking the frontiers of the country with their masterful = artistry=20 of making motorable lanes out of sheer rock. This = appreciable effort=20 of theirs is resented by only a few who, aided by sheer = wanderlust,=20 make the effort to travel to places not yet encroached by = the=20 bulldozer. Some trails, however, remain as pristine as they = were=20 when the first man walked them, and now, thanks to the = roads, these=20 routes are more accessible, even to the office = busybee.

One=20 such route connects the Spiti valley with Ladakhi = Changthang, and is=20 still used as the main trail for trade and travel in these = areas.=20 The Parang La (pass), at 5,600 meters, forms the source of = the Pare=20 Chu river, an amazing river system which rises to the north = of the=20 Parang La, traveling 30 kilometers eastwards and turning = sharply=20 south to enter Tibet. After flowing 85 kilometers through = the=20 plateau, it changes its course westerly to re-enter India = near its=20 confluence with the Spiti river at Sumdo, on the Hindustan = Tibet=20 road, 33 kilometers before reaching Tabo.

The Parang = La is=20 the traditional trade route between the people of Spiti, = Changthang=20 and Tibet. From Spiti, the trail begins in the high-altitude = meadows=20 of Kibber (14,000 feet), a two-hour drive from Kaza, the = district=20 headquarters of Spiti. Kaza is also the venue of the = Ladarcha, an=20 annual cultural fair which was initially a trading festival = that=20 took place in the surrounding higher meadows. Kibber is the = breeding=20 ground of the famous Spiti horses and also known to be snow = leopard=20 country.

Kibber has an ancient monastery worth a = visit, and=20 is also mentioned in most guidebooks as the highest = motorable=20 village, but now the road has apparently reached Tashigang, = 18=20 kilometers uphill. On the way from Kaza to Kibber, one = passes Kye=20 village, which prides itself on being home to the largest = monastery=20 in Spiti, the Kye gompa is well worth a visit. From Kibber, = which is=20 also the roadhead on the Spiti side of events, the trail = descends=20 the scenic Kibber gorge and climbs to village Dumla, a small = green=20 bowl arriving in time for a last cup of butter tea for the = next ten=20 days. Dumla happens to be the last inhabitation till Karzog, = more=20 than one week's walk away.

A stiff climb above Dumla = is=20 rewarded with views of Parilungbi (Lingti valley) and = Shilla, and=20 the first day's camp is at Thaltak meadow below a small pass = crossing the Thaltak La. Shilla (6,132 meters) remained an = altitude=20 record for 47 years after it was climbed in 1860 by a = khalasi of the=20 Survey of India. Inaccurate height computation contributed = to the=20 record until a modern survey reduced it by nearly 3,000=20 feet.

An early morning's start the next day begins = with a=20 gut-wrenching descent to Rongchu nalla, followed by a climb = upstream=20 for an hour. The actual climb towards the Parang La begins = now with=20 a climb on scree for nearly four hours. Camp at Bongrochen, = meaning=20 "donkey's corpse," does not come too soon as the altitude = begins to=20 take its toll on the system and the going, however exciting, = does=20 get a bit slow.

The Spiti side of the divide is = extremely dry=20 and sunburnt, but with hardly any snow conditions to be = encountered.=20 All along the route, one is held captive by the deep gorges = and=20 wind-battered rock formations, which characterize the first = few days=20 towards the Parang La. Bongrochen, the last camp before = crossing the=20 Parang La from the Spiti side, is in a bowl surrounded by = high=20 mountains on either side, and the Parang La is nowhere in = sight.=20

An early start is mandatory the next morning, as the = other=20 side of the pass has heavy snow conditions. If one is lucky, = a herd=20 of sheep, who cross the pass with packs of barley strapped = on to=20 each of them, provide good company. The final gradient to = the pass=20 is extremely steep, and it takes a good couple of hours to = finally=20 haul oneself over the top. But once there, a complete change = of=20 terrain more than compensates for the lifetime it takes to = climb=20 over this 18,500-foot-high crossing. The pass on the Pare = Chu side=20 is snow-clad, and a broad valley greets you looking down = towards the=20 broad flood plain of the river.

There are a few=20 well-camouflaged deep crevasses directly below the pass, = which=20 invariably claim a few sheep each year as they are = shepherded over=20 the "la." Spiti horses are taken over to the Changthang = side, where=20 they are sold to the Changpas (nomads of Changthang) for = money or=20 pashmina in return. Sticking to the right of the pass on the = descent, one crosses the Pare Chu at the mouth of the = glacier over a=20 not-so-stable snow bridge. The horses need to be coaxed = here, as=20 they invariably show a little reluctance while crossing what = with=20 the river raging a few feet below.

The advantage of = starting=20 this trip from Spiti is that, after the first few days of = continuous=20 ascent, the descent is fairly continuous for the next few = days,=20 though not entirely effortless, making the walk really = enjoyable.=20 Camp is set a few kilometers below the mouth of the river at = Dak=20 Karzong, a green meadow on the banks of the Pare Chu. A = chance=20 meeting with a traveler from Karzog is not ruled out, though = they=20 usually are in more of a hurry, going the entire distance in = four=20 days.

The river begins to divide itself over several = channels=20 now, and the valley is nearly a kilometer and a half wide. = Crossing=20 its many channels is part of the day's work as we work our = way=20 downstream. The next two days are spent walking along the = river=20 through green meadows and wind formations (called "kathpa = boozae")=20 not very many people have seen to date.

A week after = having=20 left Kibber, we reach the confluence of the Pare Chu with = the=20 Phirtse Phu at Norbu Sumdo. A river crossing here brings one = to an=20 almost incredible change of landscape as we walk north = towards the=20 Rupshu plains of Changthang. Camp for the night is at Chumik = Shilale, a parrot-green meadow set in wide green plains and = low,=20 rolling, sun-kissed hills. From now on, spotting the = Changthang wolf=20 remains a very good possibility.

At Norbu Sumdo, we = part=20 company with the Pare Chu, which flows south from the = confluence to=20 flow into Tibet, past Chumur, India's last outpost along its = border=20 with Tibet. Three years ago, I had visited Chumur as part of = the=20 first successful attempt to reach the base and make an = attempt on=20 Gya (6,794 meters), lying on the tri-junction of Tibet, = J&K and=20 Himachal Pradesh. Gya is also the highest mountain in = Himachal=20 Pradesh, a wonderfully elusive mountain and one of the = finest=20 rock-climbing challenges left. It had initially baffled a = number of=20 good-sized expeditions that tried to reach its base. Gya, or = Kalcham=20 Gyalmo, forms a grand backdrop as one walks away from Norbu = Sumdo=20 towards Karzog, remaining visible until we leave = Karzog.

A=20 few kilometers from Chumik Shilale lies Kiangdom, named = after the=20 abundance of Kiangs, the Tibetan wild ass found here. The = walk=20 toward Tso Moriri over a scree slope, with the lake and its = delta=20 visible, sends the adrenalin levels up as the enormity of = the lake=20 sinks in. Kiangdom lies at the southern edge of the Tso = Moriri=20 (15,000 feet), a high-altitude lake 27 kilometerss long and = nearly 8=20 kilometers wide. This lake is the breeding ground for the = bar-headed=20 goose, the black-necked crane and the Brahminy duck.=20

Kiangdom needs to be visited in order to realize the = immense=20 beauty of this area, opened only in1994 to visitors.
The = trail=20 goes along the Tso Moriri until we reach Karzog, a permanent = settlement and also the roadhead. The lake makes a fitting = finale to=20 a trek through landscape seemingly out of a picture = postcard. A day=20 or two spent here is a great idea, since it allows visitors = to take=20 in the sights and sounds of the Buddhist way of life. = Another=20 worthwhile visit is to one of the Changpa settlements in a = bowl high=20 above Karzog, where this hardy people lives in yak-skin = tents and=20 breeds yaks and pashmina, one of the trade items to go over = these=20 high passes.

A four-hour drive from the Tso, passing = through=20 equally scenic terrain, lies Tsokar, a salt lake which was = once the=20 source of nearly all of Ladakh's salt supply. The road = climbs away=20 from Karzog to Kiagar Tso, a smaller lake above Tso Moriri.=20 According to locals, Kiagar Tso was part of the Tso Moriri = until=20 both receded. The motorable road passes through hot sulphur = springs=20 at Puga, which is well known for its healing powers, as = several=20 locals and people from Leh will gladly testify.

The = dusty=20 road climbs on to Polo Gonka, a small pass before the = descent to the=20 huge bowl of Tsokar. Large salt mounds litter the lake, and = the=20 water is expectedly extremely uncomfortable to taste. There = is one=20 convenient spot to camp next to a fresh water source on the = banks of=20 Tsokar. It is not surprising to see Kiangs run along and = overtake=20 the vehicle one is traveling in.

On the opposite bank = from=20 the campsite is the village of Tugche, which boasts of a = massive=20 wolf trap and an ancient monastery. From the monastery, one = can see=20 the watermarks of the lake, which at one time was nearly 200 = to 300=20 feet higher than what it has presently receded = to.

Four=20 kilometers from Tsokar, one meets the main Manali-Leh = highway before=20 the climb to Taglang La, the world's second-highest = motorable pass.=20 A comfortable four-hour drive away lies Leh, the capital of = Ladakh,=20 the highest and largest district in the country. It's a = fitting end=20 to having experienced firsthand the enormous scale and the = rugged,=20 weather-beaten beauty of a region that remains much of a = magical=20 mystery and, for some of us, the end of a = rainbow.

GETTING=20 THERE

From Delhi: Fly/ Drive to Kullu. Drive on to = Manali.=20 Cross the Rohtang and take diversion at Gramphoo to Chattru. = Continue on to Spiti via Batal, Kunzum La, Losar and Kaza. = Kibber is=20 two hours from Kaza.

Hire a jeep from Manali to = Kibber. For=20 self-driven vehicles, high suspension a must.
** A longer = drive=20 from Shimla to Kibber via Rampur, Kalpa, Tabo and Kaza is = also a=20 possibility**

SEASON
July to September (depending = on the=20 opening of the higher passes)

TRAVEL = RESTRICTIONS
Permits=20 for foreigners (minimum 04) required to be processed at DC = Office,=20 Kaza. Permits for Tso Moriri to be arranged to reach = Karzog.
Good=20 acclimatization a must for this trip. Take at least three = overnight=20 stops between Manali and Kibber.
Making arrangements = through a=20 reputed tour operator who will make all permit/transport=20 arrangements, besides taking care of all trekking logistics, = is=20 recommended. Make sure you meet your trekking guide before = you=20 leave.

WHERE TO STAY
PWD guest house at Chattru/ = Set up=20 your own Camp.
PWD guest house at Losar/ Set up your own=20 Camp.
Kaza: Hotel Sakya's Abode. Clean rooms with food=20 available.
Kibber: Hotel Parang La. Setting up camp=20 recommended.
Karzog - Set up your own = camp.

GETTING=20 OUT
Arrange transport to meet at Karzog for drive to = Leh.
Fly=20 Leh to Delhi.

DISTANCES
Delhi-Manali (6,700 feet): = 570kms
Manali-Chattru (11,670 feet): = 79kms
Chattru-Losar=20 (13,350 feet): 62kms
Losar-Kaza (11,800 feet):=20 58kms
Karzog-Leh (11,500 feet): = 226kms

Author Biography

Vaibhav Kala is = one of=20 the most experienced outdoors people in India, having = climbed and=20 rafted extensively in his 12 years of experience. He has = been part=20 of major mountain attempts and some classic first descents = of wild=20 remote rivers in India's northeastern state of Arunachal = Pradesh. He=20 now runs a successful outdoor outfit that provides safe, = offbeat=20 trips for the discerning traveler.

Provided=20 By Aquaterra=20 Adventures

Curr= ency=20 Converter

Lis= ting=20 #: 1024407 Last Updated:=20 = 10/30/2000


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Last = modified:=20 October 2000

Copyright =A9 1999-2000=20 RealAdventures

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