Arunachal Pradesh - A River Running Shangri La = Articles & Stories: Regional Arunachal Pradesh India

From: Subject: Arunachal Pradesh - A River Running Shangri La Articles & Stories: Regional Arunachal Pradesh India Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 18:48:26 +0530 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0021_01C0ACB7.5AFE9400"; type="text/html" X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C0ACB7.5AFE9400 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Location: http://www.realadventures.com/mv/showlink.mv?1024405+0001 Arunachal Pradesh - A River Running Shangri La = Articles & Stories: Regional Arunachal Pradesh India

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Arunachal Pradesh - A = River=20 Running Shangri La=20

Related Information On =

Arunachal=20 Pradesh
India
Asia

Regional
Articles=20 & Stories

=20

By = Vaibhav=20 Kala

Arunachal Pradesh: this north-eastern = frontier of=20 India
reminds one of the early British explorations in = areas=20 inhabited by less-than-friendly tribals, the Indo-Chinese = conflict,=20 leech-infested rainforests and a region of inaccessibility = and=20 inhospitality. In fact, until the end of the 1930s, the = region held=20 little attraction, except to ethnologists and = botanists.

The=20 scenario has changed somewhat in the past half-century, and = what is=20 not evident to the uninitiated is the enormous number of = river=20 systems this state provides for the river-running = enthusiast. It is=20 to this incredible whitewater destination that we signed up = with the=20 2 Mountain Division of the Indian army in 1994. Our = expedition was=20 to initiate their combatant units to river running and, by=20 extension, rafting the main rivers of the state: the mighty=20 Brahmaputra and its tributaries, the Lohit and the=20 Subansari.

Our team of river guides and kayakers were = Vikram=20 Joshi, Jigme Dorje Sherpa (JD), and me. Yusuf Zaheer, = another=20 experienced rafter, joined us for the first descent of the=20 Subansari. With two 16-foot-long Avon rafts, whitewater = kayaks and a=20 great amount of enthusiasm, we departed for Arunachal = Pradesh, on a=20 trip which is indelibly etched in our memory as our most = memorable=20 exploratory journey.

All of us were seasoned river = runners,=20 but a 45-day expedition on unknown rivers was a factor which = contributed greatly to the adrenaline rush over the next six = weeks.=20 With anxiety bordering on apprehension, we were escorted by = the=20 Indian army for the first and second descents of the = Subansari, the=20 biggest tributary of the Brahmaputra. After a big tribal = dance=20 reception at Taliha, above a quaint little town of Daporijo, = we put=20 our boats in to an awesome send-off celebrating the first = attempt to=20 charter this river.

The Subansari flows through a = densely=20 forested valley with large sandy beaches indicating the = high-water=20 mark, and is completely remote. The joy of descending a = valley that=20 no one had visited before added tremendously to the trip, = with the=20 rapids rating among the best we had rafted = before.

Having=20 completed the first and second descents of the beautiful = Subansari,=20 we went on to the first major descent of the Lohit, starting = at=20 Kibithu, the eastern-most outpost of India, bordering China. = From=20 here, one can see the Chinese positions and a well-lit = officer’s=20 mess. The Lohit is an extremely difficult and scary river, = quite=20 easily among the toughest to run in Arunachal. It has = continuous=20 stretches of Grade V rapids, and the end of each day was = marked by=20 our team of guides sitting in our tents with completely = listless=20 expressions after the efforts of the day. The Lohit, we = thought, was=20 a river to challenge the wits of any river runner, something = we=20 learnt over five days and a 130 kilometers of steep, raging = white=20 water. It was only at Parashuram Kund, where the Lohit = enters the=20 plains, that one could begin to relax without having to gear = up for=20 the onslaught of the next Grade V.

The run-up to the=20 Brahmaputra began with an airlift in a Russian AN-32 = transport=20 aircraft to a small village completely devoid of = communication with=20 the outside world. Tuting lies very close to the = international=20 boundary with China and is probably the only place in the = world=20 where the Air Force is used to transport civilian population = on a=20 regular basis. The river seemed big, even from the air = – a=20 speculation which was to be confirmed over and over again = over the=20 next 12 days.

The Brahmaputra commenced its journey = perhaps a=20 millenium ago as the Tsangpo in Tibet, much like a ribbon, = creeping=20 through the barren with a golden track. The Tsangpo, in its = upper=20 reaches flows gently eastwards, hundreds of miles across = Tibet,=20 prior to its entry into India. Before it enters the state of = Arunachal Pradesh, it narrows at a gorge it has sliced over=20 centuries between two giant Himalayan mountains; Gyala Peri = (24,443=20 feet) and Namche Barwa (25,445 feet), the latter being the = highest=20 unclimbed mountain in the world.

Here, the river also = takes a=20 big loop to change its easterly course to southernly – = this is=20 called the "Big Bend". This gorge is practically untrekkable = and=20 unchartered. Its total length is contained in a 25-mile = upper gorge,=20 potentially a death zone with 30-foot waterfalls and = continuous=20 Grade V+ rapids. The 15-mile inner gorge has walls as high = as 3,000=20 feet, while the 80-mile lower gorge has similar = characteristics. In=20 this gorge, the Tsangpo pushes volume up to 2,00,000 cubic = feet per=20 second (cfs) and drops at a rate of 150 feet per mile. The = Colorado=20 River in the Grand Canyon drops at 7 feet per = mile.

An air=20 reconnaissance by enthusiastic American river runners a few = years=20 back termed this as "one section of white water which will = never be=20 run". Some Russian kayakers toyed with the idea of a first = descent=20 of this section – one hasn’t heard of the idea = since. In September=20 1998, National Geographic sponsored an expedition to charter = this=20 gorge with a team of kayakers, attempting an alpine-style = descent=20 supported by a support crew on land. It failed when a very=20 experienced U.S. kayaker, Douglas Gordan, lost his life on = running=20 an 8-foot drop in the gorge – his body was not found = after four days=20 of search and the expedition was called off. The "Big Bend" = still=20 awaits a complete descent.

The uncontrolled fury of = the=20 Tsangpo, however, lessens to a certain extent, but is in no = way=20 contained when it enters Arunachal Pradesh near its border = with=20 China at Gelling. The river is now called the Siang. Its = journey to=20 the plains at Pasighat, 200 kilometers away through tribal = territory=20 inhabited by the Adi tribe, makes this expedition one of the = premier=20 wilderness trips available today.

The Adi villages = dot the=20 remote hills in clearings surrounded by leech-ridden = rainforests.=20 These tribes worship the Donyi-Polo (Sun-Moon), and this = river is=20 held in great awe and reverence, mostly due to the = frightening=20 volume of water it discharges each year.
The Siang, like = all=20 rivers originating in the mountains, forms rapids due to = loss of=20 gradient, constrictions, and obstructions on its way to the = plains.=20 These rapids are graded on a scale of I to VI based on their = size=20 and the degree of difficulty encountered while negotiating = them,=20 Grade VI being unrunnable or suicidal. It is the size of = these=20 rapids, the surroundings and the sheer volume of water that = make it=20 a complete a whitewater running experience.

Our = expedition=20 completed a three-day training of expedition members at = Tuting, a=20 few miles inside the line-of-control with China. The = reputation of=20 the Siang was well known since its first descent by an = Indo-Japanese=20 expedition. We began the task of drilling our respective = crews into=20 shape and teaching them various paddling techniques, rescue = and raft=20 flip drills and, finally, familiarization with river hazards = –=20 features such as "holes," "breaking waves," "pourovers" and=20 "haystacks," all of which can be major trouble in a rapid if = not=20 sighted or read in time.

The key to rafting a river=20 successfully is "whitewater reading," which is essentially = the=20 spotting of the hazards in a rapid, plotting a course = through or=20 around them and finally executing it, making sure the crew = and=20 clients come out of it safely after having had the time of = their=20 lives.

The first day below Tuting, ten of us in two = rafts=20 accompanied by a safety kayaker get first taste of big = volume=20 whitewater as we negotiate a big, constricted Grade IV+ = rapid near=20 the village of Ninguing. Rapids keep coming as the Siang = pushes=20 strongly. Another Grade V for the day, and we beach for the = night at=20 Pango, awaited by a posse of the Indian army armed with hot = tea and=20 pakoras followed by an early dinner and campfire. What was=20 disconcerting was a big rapid roaring away a short distance = below=20 our camp. A shot of rum and a good night’s sleep = before we woke up=20 to hear it and run it again turned out to be extremely=20 therapeutic.

Day two is a demanding and exciting one = with=20 four big Grade IV+ rapids – it is a day of river = guides screaming=20 commands, our crew flailing paddles (hitting mostly air!), = rushing=20 adrenaline and the sights, sounds, and smells of world-class = white=20 water. At the village of Rikor, the villagers trooped down = to the=20 river to see our rafts run down the Grade IV+. One of them = had seen=20 a raft flip on the Indo-Japanese trip, and he offered us the = advantage of his experience by pointing out the safer=20 route.

The excitement continues as rafts disappear = into=20 rapids, to be seen on the crest of an 18-foot wave, only to = go out=20 of sight again – the crew and guide working together = to plow head-on=20 into the waves. Errors in judgment cannot be accommodated = – hitting=20 water at the wrong angle can cause a "flip" within seconds. = In=20 seconds, but what seems like a lifetime, the rapid is over, = as we=20 look back with gaping mouths at what we came through. In the = calm,=20 one gets to recapitulate on events as the rafts float = downstream=20 alongside with various exchanges about everybody’s = views of the last=20 rapid.

We reach Alubadi beach by late afternoon, = where an Adi=20 tribal sells us oranges at ten for a rupee. The locals are = delighted=20 by the sight of the boats, and one old lady has walked a = couple of=20 days to see our expedition. She has trouble relating to our=20 lifejackets and helmets and thinks JD is an incarnation of = the=20 Donyi-Polo! One can only be amazed at the power of this = river, the=20 culture and the people it has sustained on its banks. This = kind of=20 power is only there to experience and to savour for the rest = of our=20 lives.

"Breakfast Rapid" is the first on day three, a = big one=20 with a history of raft flips. Increased heart beats, a rush = of=20 adrenaline, a desperate command for "Hard Forward," and = it’s behind=20 us in a matter of a few seconds. It turns out to be a = relaxed day on=20 the river as we get first sight of the bamboo suspension = bridge at=20 Yinkeong. We halt for the night here and look around the = village,=20 where a mithun (bosfrontalis) sacrifice is in progress. = Wealth in=20 these parts is gauged by the number of mithuns a family = possesses.=20 At marriages, a bride price (payable in mithuns) has to be = paid by=20 the groom depending on his status. A mithun sacrifice is not = recommended for the weak-hearted and is not a very pleasant = event=20 for the sightseeing tourist. We chose to wander around the = village=20 and walk back to camp to sit and chat about the day gone=20 by.

The next day begins with a long, technical Grade = IV+,=20 followed closely by a monster Grade V+ at Karko. We beached = above=20 the rapid and walked over huge rocks to scout this one. This = rapid=20 is uncommonly big, and it had an audience of 13 of us for = nearly two=20 hours. Finding a reasonable run through it seemed very = difficult at=20 this level, considering it was getting late in the afternoon = and we=20 did not have much reaction time in case things went wrong. = It was a=20 possible run if the river had been a foot higher – or = lower, for=20 that matter – but the "Karko Killer," as we call it, = was left for=20 another day.

River running has its own rules – = one of them=20 is, "When the level is up, the ego is down." The "Karko = Killer" best=20 personifies this rule. It has in fact, left us with a very = good=20 reason to come back to run this river again.

We float = on=20 below Karko to reach Geku, a few kilometers below. Camp is = made at=20 Geku, and another evening is spent talking about the trip, = Karko,=20 flips, waves, and Old Monk rum. Geku onwards, the river = seems to=20 pump a lot more volume. Float sections with the river = covered in=20 mist make it an interesting day. The Siang meets another = tributary,=20 the Siyom, coming in from the west soon after Boling. We = stop for a=20 packed lunch on a beach soon after, and a helicopter flies = overhead=20 to ensure that we are still in one piece.

It is = evening by=20 the time we reach Yembung. A government rest house near the = banks is=20 a welcome sight after the camping out for the last few days. = Yembung=20 has a small market, and hot samosas are one of the = specialties here.=20 Sleeping on a bed is a novelty on the penultimate night as = the scale=20 of our trip begins to sink in. Celebrations begin to happen = on this=20 last night of the trip, and for the first time there is no=20 speculation about the next day’s rapids.

Day = six starts with=20 a float down the valley, followed by lots of smaller rapids. = Soon=20 after cane bridge, our rafts reach the village of Ponging = (Pugging)=20 to be greeted by the sound of the final "biggie" of the trip = – an=20 enormous Grade V running in two channels, the one towards = the=20 village being ruled out immediately. It serves well as a = reminder of=20 the fury of a great river, of hot flushes through = one’s innards, the=20 flats before the maelstrom and of the several thousand tons = of water=20 pushing the raft towards the chaos below.

As we close = in on=20 the ferries at Pasighat, it seems an early finale to us, = being so=20 completely overwhelmed by the Siang, now called the = Brahmaputra, the=20 only one in the country with a masculine gender. The joy of = living=20 and traveling on the river, the impenetrable hillsides, the = remote=20 gorges, the long floats, the camaraderie developed between = our team=20 of guides and the crew combined in one magical moment as we = beached=20 our boats for the last time. And more so, the thrill at = having=20 descended one of the world’s great rivers and its = tributaries in an=20 area which would easily rank as one of the most inaccessible = regions=20 in the world.

Author = Biography

Vaibhav Kala=20 is one of the most experienced outdoors people in India, = having=20 climbed and rafted extensively in his 12 years of = experience. He has=20 been part of major mountain attempts and some classic first = descents=20 of wild remote rivers in India’s northeastern state of = Arunachal=20 Pradesh. He now runs a successful outdoor outfit that = provides safe,=20 offbeat trips for the discerning traveler. =

Provided=20 By Aquaterra=20 Adventures

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Lis= ting=20 #: 1024405 Last Updated:=20 = 10/27/2000


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