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FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 15pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; = TEXT-DECORATION: none } .factfile { FONT-SIZE: 15pt; COLOR: #ffffff; FONT-STYLE: normal; FONT-FAMILY: Ms = sans serif,Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; TEXT-DECORATION: none } .factcont { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; FONT-FAMILY: = Arial,Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; TEXT-DECORATION: none } .subheader { FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: #800000; FONT-STYLE: normal; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; = TEXT-DECORATION: none } .author { FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: #686868; FONT-STYLE: normal; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; = TEXT-DECORATION: underline } .travelsectioncopy { FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: #396ca0; FONT-STYLE: normal; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; = TEXT-DECORATION: none } .artsectioncopy { FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: #949e68; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, = Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; TEXT-DECORATION: none } .gourmetsectioncopy { FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: #c078b6; FONT-STYLE: normal; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; = TEXT-DECORATION: none } .ecosectioncopy { FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: #008040; FONT-STYLE: normal; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; = TEXT-DECORATION: none } .pleasuresectioncopy { FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: #568bbe; FONT-STYLE: normal; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; = TEXT-DECORATION: none } .healthsectioncopy { FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: #f08d0d; FONT-STYLE: normal; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; = TEXT-DECORATION: none } .businesssectioncopy { FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: #9382c3; FONT-STYLE: normal; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; = TEXT-DECORATION: none } .businesssectioncopy1 { FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: #9382c3; FONT-STYLE: normal; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; = TEXT-DECORATION: none } .hotsectioncopy { FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: #008040; FONT-STYLE: normal; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; = TEXT-DECORATION: none } .wandersectioncopy { FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: #008040; FONT-STYLE: normal; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; = TEXT-DECORATION: none } .searchsectioncopy { FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; COLOR: #008040; FONT-STYLE: normal; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Verdana, Geneva, Helvetica, sans-serif; = TEXT-DECORATION: none } .nav { FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 10px; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: = Verdana; TEXT-DECORATION: none } .nav:hover { FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 10px; COLOR: #ffd735; FONT-FAMILY: = Verdana; TEXT-DECORATION: none } 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true; } var WebBrowser =3D ''; document.body.insertAdjacentHTML('beforeEnd', WebBrowser); // WebBrowser1.ExecWB(6, 1); //Use a 1 vs. a 2 for a prompting dialog box WebBrowser1.outerHTML = =3D ""; =20 } if(pr) window.print(); =09 // else if(da && !pr) // alert ("print"); // WebBrowser1.ExecWB(6,2); else alert("Sorry, your browser dosen't support this feature"); } ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C34498.89C7DB40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Location: http://www.jetairways.com/jetwings/travel/link5.asp Jetwings - Travelogue =
3DTravel=20
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3D""=20
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3DTravelogue=20
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   A=20 paean to Panaji
   Small=20 and Perfectly formed
   Rediscoverin= g=20 Royal Rewa
   Abode=20 of snow
   Down the River tons =
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   Glory=20 of Himalayas
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   Accolade=20 for Vijaypat..
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   It's=20 our life
   Ten=20 on Ten
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Down=20 the river tons
text & photographs by Rishad Saam = Mehta

Soaring and=20 swooping along rapids can be unbearable fun, for some. =

High=20 up in the Himalayas, there=92s a mountain called = the=20 Bandarpunch. The snowcapped summit of its peak = nudges=20 the sky at more than 6,096 m, but if you ever = happen to=20 find yourself in this freezing neighbourhood at = around=20 5,334 m, cock your ears and you=92ll hear the = sound of a=20 glacial trickle. This little drip is the humble=20 beginning of the River Tons, and what starts out = as a=20 trickle gathers force and magnitude as it rushes = down=20 the mountains. And as it tosses and tumbles past = Mori,=20 in northern Uttaranchal, it forms some of the = most=20 exciting rapids that you can raft on in the = Indian=20 subcontinent.

 
And, so, the three of = us juggled=20 timetables, filled leave application forms and = packed=20 floaters and shorts to raft the Tons. I like to = call=20 that May weekend an exercise in national = integration,=20 because although we started from Delhi, we = arrived from=20 different parts of the country. I flew in from = Mumbai=20 and Ruchi endured state transport buses from = Shimla.=20 Poor Bunny couldn=92t arrive from anywhere, = because she=20 lives in Delhi.

It was a pleasant drive from the = capital, and=20 our first night halt was at a place called Hathipaon, = near=20 Mussourie, which had us shivering in the 8=B0-C cold.=20

Our host at the camp at Hathipaon took great = pleasure=20 in telling us how icy cold the Tons was going to be. = It=92s all=20 very well to talk about icy rivers in the 40=B0 C plus = temperature of the capital, but, believe me, when = you=92re=20 sitting shivering in front of a campfire with your = posterior=20 freezing, the prospect of rafting an icy cold rapid = suddenly=20 seems positively evil.

But, by the time we = reached=20 Mori at noon the next day, that evil had been = exorcised. The=20 sun was beating down with a vengeance and the frothy = green=20 river looked so inviting that I almost drove the Alto = straight=20 into it. The sharp exclamations of the girls helped me = curb my=20 impulses, and we arrived at the parking lot instead of = the=20 riverbank, where the rafts dock.

Vaibhav, who = runs the=20 camp and is one of the river guides, came out to greet = us and,=20 after the mandatory handshakes and smiles, told us = that lunch=20 was being served. The eagerness to hit the river must = have=20 shown through our smiles because, halfway through = lunch, he=20 arrived at a trot and instructed us to gear up for a = run down=20 to the river.

Exactly seven minutes later, = with rajma=20 and rice doing the rounds of our insides, we were = ready at the=20 starting point. All three of us had collected our = bright=20 yellow splash jackets, paddles and life vests from the = equipment rack, and, as we bounced along in the back = of the=20 mini truck, Vaibhav filled us in about the safety = angle and=20 the commands that he=92d throw at us to get us = smoothly through=20 whatever the river had in store for us.

We=92d = worn our=20 life jackets like lounge suits, easy and comfortable, = and=20 Vaibhav promptly gave all loose straps forceful yanks = so that=20 the lounge suits began to feel like corsets. The idea = behind=20 this is that a life jacket shouldn=92t budge an inch = once it has=20 been strapped on, otherwise, its effectiveness is = greatly=20 reduced.

Since we were just four of us on the = raft, we=20 used a combination of two large oars that would be = operated by=20 Vaibhav and Ruchi and I would be helping with smaller = paddles=20 on either side up front. For this first run, Bunny = would sit=20 in the centre and enjoy the ride much like Cleopatra = with her=20 own personal galley complete with slaves.

The = Tons is=20 so much fun because there is never a dull moment on = it. We=20 just cast off from the bank, with Captain Vaibhav = merrily=20 rowing our boat gently down the stream, acknowledging = the=20 catcalls and whistles of the locals lining both the = banks.=20 When, our captain called out,

=93Let=92s = Go,=94 over and=20 over again, the girls gave him sweet smiles to thank = him for=20 his enthusiasm and encouragement. It was with a sudden = shock=20 that we realised that his heartfelt cries were to warn = us=20 about the first mighty rapid ahead, aptly named = Let=92s Go=92!=20 That first shock of a three-metre high wave breaking = over us,=20 splashing volumes of cold water, was like being zapped = by a=20 large and fluid filled stun gun, and, although Ruchi = and I=20 could hear Vaibhav=92s heartfelt pleas to give him a = forward=20 paddle, our limbs refused to comply. It seemed as if = the chain=20 of command that flows from the brain had been iced = over. By=20 the time it thawed out, =91Let=92s Go=92 was behind = us.

"Welcome to the = Tons,=94 said=20 Vaibhav with a wicked smile, as he lined us up = for the=20 next rapid. Rocky 3 is an exhilarating rush. = This rapid,=20 named after three strategically placed rock = clusters,=20 which render this rapid technical (a term that=20 identifies or classifies sections of the rapids) = had=20 Vaibhav seriously telling us he needed some = drive from=20 his two front paddlers. The shock of the water = was less=20 numbing this time around, and the two of us went = at the=20 rapid with gusto.

Riding the rapids is = much like=20 tumbling over a constantly churning mass of = water. The=20 waves would lift the raft into the air and then = throw it=20 down into the hole created in its wake. The next = wave=20 would then crash onto the raft, and Ruchi and I = would=20 soldier on, responding to Vaibhav=92s command, = and drawing=20 sharp involuntary gasps, as the water made = inroads into=20 hitherto dry areas.
 
Other = rapids that=20 followed were =91Give Me Mori=92, =91Horns of = the Tons=92 and=20 =91The Long Horn=92. The last was another rough = one, with=20 half the raft disappearing into the water. = Bunny, who=92d=20 managed a regal perch in the centre of the raft, = was=20 rudely unsettled as the craft bobbed like a cork = in the=20 =91ocean=92 and threw her past her lowly galley = slaves,=20 giving her a head first ducking over the bow of = the=20 raft. She emerged veiled in water rushing down = the front=20 of her helmet.

Ruchi and I had rafted the Kali at = Dandeli,=20 Goa, in January. There, the river guide had encouraged = us to=20 jump into the river after every rapid and swim around = a bit.=20 On the Tons, however, we=92d check our leg braces = after every=20 rapid to ensure that we didn=92t go overboard as the = raft rushed=20 forward with wild abandon. That afternoon, the run = lasted for=20 an hour and 15 minutes, and when Vaibhav deposited us = on the=20 bank near the camp, I was blue, thrilled and = exhilarated, but,=20 most of all =96 blue. The water was just too = cold.

Camp=20 lay a hill climb away, and getting there was just a = laugh for=20 Ruchi =96 that girl=92s a mountain goat when it comes = to hilly=20 terrains, and she scooted up the steep incline = shouting out=20 encouragement and laughing at poor Bunny and me, as we = gingerly made our way up on lifeless = legs.

While we=20 were on the river, the boys in the kitchen tent at the = camp=20 had been busy, and had hot tea and pakoras (savouries) = waiting=20 for us. The plan was to do the 40-minute walk to the = natural=20 pool after we=92d had our tea to let our legs return = to normal,=20 but, by the time tea was over, the sun had already = disappeared=20 behind the mountains around us and the aroma of dinner = had=20 started to waft tantalisingly towards us from the = kitchen=20 tent.

Vaibhav and his band of river guides had = got a=20 roaring bonfire going, around which we sat and = recounted our=20 day=92s heroics. The captain gallantly managed to keep = a=20 straight face but, sometimes, when we really stretched = the=20 truth about how we=92d tamed a particular rapid, = he=92d give a sly=20 smile, as he replayed the scene in his mind about who = really=20 tamed whom.

Telling yarns around the bonfire = was the=20 perfect end to an exciting day. The conversation = ranged from=20 rapids to rum and from constellations in the heavens = above to=20 cosmopolitan Delhi. I=92d decided to beat the sun the = next=20 morning and take a walk at dawn, but it was so cosy = under the=20 quilt that I ceded victory to the morning star and = emerged=20 from my tent only at 8.00 am.

I had to take = pictures=20 that day, so, while the girls geared up for another = run on the=20 river, I loaded up the car with my cameras. Three = rafts=20 started off and I had my fair share of exhaustion, as = I tried=20 to beat them to every rapid driving along the bank to = be ready=20 for a shot before they got there. A flock of sheep = blocking=20 the road didn=92t help, and the more persistently = I=92d honk, the=20 more pitifully they=92d bleat and not budge an inch. = Finally, I=20 had to get out and encourage them to get on with a few = lusty=20 whacks on their woolly rears.

That day Vaibhav = really=20 made the girls work hard, as the water level was = higher and=20 the rapids fiercer. When they finally arrived at camp, = they=20 and the other rafters looked so pooped that the cook = quickened=20 his culinary pace out of fear that someone might pass = out from=20 exhaustion.

We would have liked to spend a few = more=20 days at Mori, but jobs, families and editors beckoned = and we=20 headed back to Delhi.

Now that we are back in = our=20 respective cities and, when the three of us meet over = that=20 wonderful medium in the sky that is the Internet, we = wax=20 lyrical about that action packed weekend on the Tons = and raise=20 a virtual toast to that glacial trickle up in the = Bandarpunch=20 that afforded us such heady excitement.

The = author=20 is the travel correspondent for Autocar = India.

F   A   C   = ;T    F    I   L&n= bsp;  E  =20


The=20 camp on the Tons is run by Aqua Terra = Adventures.=20 They appreciate it if you book in advance, = as it=20 helps them plan for provisions, which have = to be=20 carried up from quite a distance. Contact: = Aquaterra Adventures (I) Pvt Ltd, S-507, = Ground=20 Floor, Greater Kailash - II, New Delhi =96 = 110 048.=20 Tel: +91-11-29212641/29212760. Fax:=20 +91-11-29212641. e-mail: aquatera@vsnl.com = or log=20 onto: www.treknraft.com

 by = air
Jet = Airways has=20 daily flights to Delhi from all major = cities.=20

 by road

Mori = is a long=20 drive from Delhi that should take around = 11 hours.=20 The recommended route is=20 Delhi=96Dehradun=96Mussourie=96Kempty=20 Falls=96Nainbag=96Nowagaon=96Purola-Mori. = It makes sense=20 to take an overnight halt at=20 Mussourie.

 by train

The = best option is=20 to take the Delhi=96Dehradun Shatabdi = train and then=20 a taxi to Mori.
 =20 		=
=20


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