From: <Saved by Microsoft Internet Explorer 5>
Subject: Where the Earth Meets the Sky
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 19:15:02 +0530
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                clear=3Dall><NYT_DATE type=3D" " version=3D"1.0"><FONT=20
                size=3D-1><B>February 11, 2001 </B></FONT></NYT_DATE>
                <H5><FONT color=3D#af0000></FONT></H5><NYT_HEADLINE =
type=3D" "=20
                version=3D"1.0">
                <H2>Where the Earth Meets the =
Sky</H2></NYT_HEADLINE><NYT_BYLINE=20
                type=3D" " version=3D"1.0">
                <H5>By MARCIA R. LIEBERMAN</H5></NYT_BYLINE>
                <TABLE align=3Dright border=3D0 cellPadding=3D0 =
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>=20
                          </TD></TR>
                        <TR>
                          <TD align=3Dright><FONT size=3D-2>Philip=20
                            Lieberman</FONT> </TD></TR>
                        <TR>
                          <TD align=3Dleft><FONT size=3D-1>Dhankar Lake =
in=20
                            Dhankar, which was once the capital of =
Spiti.</FONT>=20
                          =
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></NYT_INLINEIMAGE><BR=20
                      clear=3Dall><FONT size=3D-1>
                      <HR SIZE=3D1>
                      <FONT color=3D#990000><B>LISTINGS &amp;=20
                      INFORMATION</B></FONT><BR>=95 <A=20
                      =
href=3D"http://www.nytimes.com/2001/02/11/travel/SPITIBX.html">Spiti:=20
                      Making trek arrangements</A>=20
                      <P><B>Related Articles</B><BR>=95 <A=20
                      =
href=3D"http://www.nytimes.com/2001/02/11/travel/ANNA.html">Reaching=20
                      A Goal In Nepal</A>=20
                      <P>=95 <A =
href=3D"http://www.nytimes.com/travel">Travel=20
                      Home</A> <BR>
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                        <TR>
                          <TD align=3Dright><FONT face=3Dgeneva,arial =
size=3D1>The=20
                            New York Times</FONT> =
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>=20
                          </TD></TR>
                        <TR>
                          <TD align=3Dright><FONT size=3D-2>Philip=20
                            Lieberman</FONT> </TD></TR>
                        <TR>
                          <TD align=3Dleft><FONT size=3D-1>In Mane, a =
village of=20
                            250 people, completely off the tourist=20
                            circuit.</FONT>=20
                      </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></NYT_INLINEIMAGE><BR =
clear=3Dall>
                      <HR SIZE=3D1>
                      =
                <P><IMG align=3Dleft alt=3DW=20
                =
src=3D"http://graphics.nytimes.com/images/dropcap/w.gif">HEN I=20
                first heard of a Jeep safari in Himalayan India, I was =
puzzled.=20
                I had traveled in the Himalayas and knew that it was =
rare to be=20
                able to get anywhere in those mountains other than on =
foot. But=20
                the region of Spiti, in Himachal Pradesh, in India's =
north, is=20
                an exception: it offers Jeep travel as well as trekking=20
                possibilities. <BR><BR>I knew little about Spiti except =
that it=20
                was the site of one of the greatest surviving monuments =
of=20
                Tibetan art, the Tabo monastery. We learned more in the =
summer=20
                of 1999, while trekking through Ladakh and Zanskar, just =
to the=20
                west, with a guide from Spiti. Together, these regions =
were once=20
                part of western Tibet and remain ethnically Tibetan. =
Intrigued,=20
                we planned a trip for August, 2000.<BR><BR>We arranged =
our=20
                three-week tour through Aquaterra Adventures, an Indian =
agency=20
                specializing in Himalayan travel. Our safari consisted =
of two=20
                Jeeps. My husband, Phil, and I, along with our guide, =
rode in=20
                one. Sukman, our cook, and his helper followed in the =
second=20
                with the food, fuel and general camp gear.<BR><BR>Two =
careful=20
                Indian drivers negotiated the trans-Himalayan roads,=20
                occasionally fording rivers and ascending steep, rocky =
tracks=20
                signposted as "jeepable." That there were roads through =
this=20
                rugged terrain, even roads that were only jeepable, was=20
                astonishing enough. "This place is no place for men," =
Rudyard=20
                Kipling wrote of Spiti in his novel "Kim." <BR><BR>Yet =
the=20
                presence of these roads allowed us not only to drive =
along the=20
                Spiti Valley but also to explore side valleys on the =
way.=20
                Typical daily excursions varied from 20 to 60 =
miles.<BR><BR>We=20
                camped sometimes in spectacular, vast, empty spaces next =
to=20
                mountain lakes, at other times beside farms. We took our =
own=20
                sleeping bags and tent, although Aquaterra can provide =
all=20
                necessary gear. We visited thousand-year-old Buddhist=20
                monasteries and traditional villages =97 places that in =
other=20
                parts of the Himalayas can be seen only by strenuous =
hiking.=20
                <BR><BR>Departing from Manali (having arrived there by =
car from=20
                Delhi), we approached Spiti from the valley of the =
Chandra=20
                River, then drove to the Lake of the Moon =97 the =
Chandra Tal. We=20
                reached the Chandra Tal in two days, stopping to camp =
overnight=20
                beside the Chandra River.<BR><BR>The Chandra valley, =
sown with=20
                boulders, looks like the bowling alley of savage gods. =
We turned=20
                off the road onto a narrow, stony track. Our driver, =
with steady=20
                nerves, proceeded cautiously as we climbed high above =
the=20
                valley, with precipitous drops to one side. It seemed as =
if we=20
                were heading into the heart of a wasteland, when we =
suddenly=20
                caught sight of the lake, its searing turquoise color a =
visual=20
                shock in this barren, stony landscape.<BR><BR>Our crew =
set up=20
                camp above the lake, at 14,000 feet. I found myself a =
little=20
                breathless, but it helped to walk around slowly. With =
Dorje, our=20
                personable young English-speaking guide, we strolled =
around the=20
                milelong lake. The shores were tinged with pale green, =
dotted=20
                with a profusion of tiny edelweiss. Beyond the lake rose =

                distant, sharp- edged mountains capped with snow. In the =
late=20
                afternoon sun the bare, craggy slopes turned pastel =
shades of=20
                sand, peach and mauve. Waterfowl with long dark beaks, =
white=20
                underbellies, and brown backs cruised the water.=20
                <BR><BR>Himachal Pradesh is creating a park here, and we =
came=20
                across workers laying out a path. The only other person =
we saw=20
                during our walk of an hour and a half was a shepherd at =
the far=20
                end of the lake, tending a flock grazing on a green =
meadow. How=20
                could a place so verdant, I wondered, suddenly appear in =
the=20
                midst of what seemed a wasteland? But such surprises, we =
were to=20
                discover, characterize this land of abrupt changes. =
<BR><BR>That=20
                night, as he did throughout the trip, Sukman served us a =
tasty=20
                and varied vegetarian meal. His specialties included =
traditional=20
                dal (lentils) with rice, noodles cooked with vegetables, =
potato=20
                dishes, and momo (Tibetan dumplings), along with =
stir-fried=20
                vegetables. Dessert was usually fruit, but once there =
was an=20
                apple tart and once a chocolate cake. For breakfast we =
had=20
                porridge or cold cereal; pancakes and eggs were offered =
as well.=20
                Lunches were usually chapatti (Indian flat bread) =
sandwiches=20
                filled with peanut butter and jam, with a bit of cheese =
or a=20
                packet of cooked potato or mushrooms.<BR><BR>The next =
morning=20
                Dorje led us from our campsite on a trail from which we =
gazed=20
                down on the valley we had traversed the day before by =
Jeep. Here=20
                above, in contrast to the barrenness below, the slopes =
were=20
                green and the Pier Panjaal mountain range spread before =
us in a=20
                splendid panorama.<BR><BR>Crossing over a ridge, we =
descended=20
                three and a half hours later and rejoined the road at =
the Kunzum=20
                Pass, where our two Jeeps met us. Here was a small =
Buddhist=20
                shrine festooned with Tibetan prayer flags, a flurry of=20
                brilliant color against a backdrop of snowy mountains. =
We=20
                watched pilgrims stop to pray and touch something on the =
shrine.=20
                Dorje explained that they put a coin on a stone embedded =
within=20
                the shrine; if one's heart is pure, the coin will stick =
=97=20
                otherwise it will fall.<BR><BR>We camped in Losar, the =
first=20
                village we came to in Spiti. Its few houses are in the =
Tibetan=20
                style, whitewashed cubes with tiny windows outlined with =
black=20
                paint, and a black-and-red stripe painted just below a =
flat roof=20
                piled with brushwood and bristling with prayer flags. A=20
                grandmotherly old woman near our camp was making tsampa, =
the=20
                staple food of Tibetan peoples. She scooped up grains of =
parched=20
                barley from a mat, tossed them into a flat pan, and =
roasted them=20
                over a fire. Beckoning to us with a smile, she offered =
us a=20
                taste; the tsampa had a pleasingly nutty flavor. =
<BR><BR>Dorje's=20
                family came from Spiti, and wherever we stopped, there =
was=20
                always a friend to shake hands with. At Yangchen Choling =

                convent, home to 15 Buddhist nuns who raise medicinal =
plants,=20
                the mother superior asked Dorje for a ride up the road, =
and we=20
                welcomed her into our Jeep. When we stopped at the =
village of=20
                Kiato to visit a small monastery, a man in a nearby =
house hailed=20
                Dorje and asked him to come in. We were invited too, and =
joined=20
                a large, jolly family eating a late-morning meal of =
dumpling=20
                soup. We sat cross-legged on a mat, and were offered =
cups of=20
                Tibetan tea, a brew flavored with salt and yak butter.=20
                <BR><BR>The village of Dankhar, formerly the capital of =
Spiti,=20
                is the site of one of its oldest monasteries, in a =
spectacular=20
                site atop a rocky crest overlooking the confluence of =
the Spiti=20
                and Pin Rivers. Below the whitewashed monastery, the =
little=20
                village seems to hang down the slope, its emerald fields =
of=20
                barley in startling contrast to the barren landscape. A =
steep=20
                path led us to the chapels, of which the topmost is =
balanced on=20
                the cusp of the cliff, with a bird's-eye view of the =
Spiti=20
                valley. <BR><BR>An hour's hike above the monastery =
brought us to=20
                Dankhar Lake, its deep blue-green color strikingly =
different=20
                from the turquoise Chandra Tal. Behind pinkish-brown =
hills rose=20
                a distant backdrop of snowy peaks. Tiny black =
salamanders=20
                scurried along the shore; we watched a bird neatly spear =
a fish.=20
                At a higher altitude, the color of the sky deepened to =
pure=20
                lapis lazuli. The silence was absolute, and we were =
alone: a=20
                side of India totally unexpected. <BR><BR>Although one=20
                attraction that lured us to Spiti was Tabo, its greatest =

                monastery, nothing prepared me for the actuality. Tabo =
is one of=20
                the glories of Tibetan art. I had imagined a single big =
temple=20
                but found instead a large complex with numerous chapels =
besides=20
                the main prayer hall, nine painted rooms in all, with=20
                magnificent murals.<BR><BR>Built in 996, Tabo is a rare =
survivor=20
                from the early period of Tibetan Buddhism and contains a =

                treasure of superb early Indo-Tibetan art. It was =
founded by the=20
                10th- century scholar Rinchen Zangpo, whose translations =
of=20
                Sanskrit texts were of fundamental importance to the=20
                establishment of Buddhism in Tibet. Tabo is not merely a =

                monastery, or gompa, but also a chokhor, a scholastic=20
                foundation, akin to the great medieval European monastic =
centers=20
                of learning. It now has a community of 50 monks. While =
we were=20
                there, several other groups of tourists arrived, but =
there were=20
                no crowds. <BR><BR>Tabo's oldest paintings, from the =
mid-11th=20
                century, are in the Tsug Lhakang, the main prayer hall. =
Buddhist=20
                deities, broad-shouldered and narrow-waisted in Indian =
and=20
                Kashmiri style, are shown against a background of =
scrolling=20
                vines and flowers. The paintings also depict great =
lamas,=20
                historical personages and a host of colorful witnesses =
in=20
                various sorts of central Asian =
dress.&nbsp;<BR><BR>Placed around=20
                the walls are painted clay statues, the finest =
sculptural=20
                examples of the period. The arrangement of these =
paintings and=20
                statues forms a unified composition, a mandala that =
illustrates=20
                the path to enlightenment. Other highlights include the=20
                16th-century murals in the Serkhang Chapel and the =
painted=20
                ceiling of the Domton Lhakang Chenpo.<BR><BR>Equally =
worth=20
                visiting is Phu, a small cave gompa across the road, =
considered=20
                part of the original Tabo group. Its paintings also date =
from=20
                the early 11th century.<BR><BR>We found comparably =
superb=20
                paintings and statues at Lhalung Gompa, a =
thousand-year-old=20
                Buddhist monastery nearly 13,000 feet above a tributary =
of the=20
                Spiti River. Here an elderly lama solemnly told us that =
Lhalung=20
                was one of three monasteries built on the same night by =
Rinchen=20
                Zangpo (the other two being Alchi, in Ladakh, and Tabo). =
The=20
                great willow tree in the courtyard, he added, had also =
been=20
                planted by the sage, as a stick. We murmured politely in =
wonder,=20
                but later, as we drove down from the monastery through a =

                landscape of gigantic formations of rock, with walls as =
big as=20
                the north face of the Eiger, dwarfing any human sense of =
scale,=20
                it suddenly seemed that the stories could indeed fit =
this=20
                impossible landscape.<BR><BR>Knowing that we wanted to =
see=20
                traditional village life, Dorje led us to Mane, a =
village=20
                completely off the usual tourist circuit, home to 250 =
people. We=20
                strolled for several hours through fields of peas, wheat =
and=20
                barley, which men and women were harvesting with =
sickles. Above=20
                the upper village, we watched a man threshing with 12 =
donkeys,=20
                singing as he drove them round and round, while another =
man=20
                flattened an earthen threshing floor with a wooden =
mallet.=20
                Around the village houses were kitchen gardens blooming =
with the=20
                pink and white flowers of young potato plants. =
<BR><BR>In the=20
                hamlet of Shego, we camped at a farm beside fields of =
peas and=20
                barley, while attending a great ceremony, a Kalachakra=20
                initiation, held by the Dalai Lama at the nearby Kyi =
monastery.=20
                The festival included a day of traditional dances. When =
the=20
                farmer's wife asked if we could take her to the =
festival, we=20
                happily agreed. In her finest traditional dress, her =
baby=20
                wrapped in a shawl, she climbed into our Jeep. We sat =
together=20
                at the outdoor festival amid a great throng of local =
people as=20
                well as some tourists, through which we could just =
barely see=20
                the Dalai Lama, who sat in a covered =
pavilion.<BR><BR>That=20
                evening the farmer's wife invited us for tea. We sat in =
a room=20
                with mud floors and a ceiling of twigs and branches, =
where she=20
                served us a plate of sweet, freshly picked peas with =
Tibetan=20
                tea. In this room, traditional in every way, an Indian =
movie=20
                flickered on a television set =97 the reception blurry =
and the=20
                sound poor, yet a sign of change coming even to this =
remote=20
                mountain land.<BR><BR>Another day we visited a few =
remote=20
                monasteries, and again met a surprise. Above a deep, =
narrow=20
                gorge, we emerged into green, rolling country, a =
landscape=20
                unlike any we had yet seen. Cows and yaks grazed on =
grass and=20
                little green shrubs, and the snow-topped mountains were =
even=20
                closer. <BR><BR>After visiting a small gompa, we sat on =
the=20
                ground to eat lunch. A little girl, her baby brother on =
her=20
                back, toiled up the slope to sell us a few ammonite =
fossils,=20
                abundant in this region. I offered her the chocolate bar =
our=20
                cook had put in my lunch bag. I had never given candy to =
the=20
                children who, across the Himalayas, beg for sweets, but =
she had=20
                not begged. She shook her head. She had never seen =
chocolate and=20
                was afraid to try it. </P></NYT_TEXT><BR =
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